Friday, March 31, 2006

How we met Kaet Dol


It's about time I put up some pictures. Here are some of the traditional mask dance troupe -Kaet Dol- that Kristofer and I have been following around for some time. So here's how it began...

Kristofer, Mrs. Kim, and Mrs. Yang and I are at lunch at one of Mokpo's amazing little restaurants. Once the sweet, rice drink was all sipped down, we say our good-byes to the sweet old couple and the old man's jazz. Mrs. Kim and Mrs. Yang say to us, "Come. We still have an hour until class."

We follow.

Next we are driving up Yudal Mountain's smooth, not so steep ridge, and we pull up to the Mokpo Cultural House. Next Mrs. Kim and Mrs. Yang show what the ajuma-gangpae (old lady-gangsta) style. All smiles and old-school Korean-southern slang, they say their hellos and introduce us as the interested foreigners. Next thing you know, we are coming that night to learn changgu --one of the Korean drums.

Next, next thing, we have crashed Kaet Dol's three-day workshop with an elder dancer, who is also a professor at Busan's Art College. Here are pics from the workshop weekend:

They rehearsed this for at least two hours. They called it the "Sex dance" because it begins with them on the ground gyrating slowly. More curious than sexy.

The Professor.

More of Kaet Dol

The troupe's producer.

Troupe members.


The Professor again.


Lots of crouching...


Troupe #2

They joke and say it looks like they are taking a shit here. I don't dare joke because I got to sit out and watch them sweat this for hours...

The producer explaining to me Korean traditional mask dance is comedy and satire, originating hundreds of years ago from farmers and laborers who would create satiric comedies about monks, aristocrats, and daily life.

At another practice. Each of the troupe members teaches other groups. Kristofer went along on this day.

Downtown near my school. They were promoting a memorial celebration for Yi Nan Young, an old famous singer from Mokpo, who sang "Tears of Mokpo."

Downtown #2

Downtown #3

Tuesday, March 21, 2006

Questions

Here are some questions one of my first year classes wrote for me as part of their homework:
Do you like Korea?
If you have a boyfriend, how he looks?
Please talk about New York City.
Do you like fruit?
My favorite music style is Jazz. What kind of music do you like?
Do you have a boyfriend? x4
What is your blood type?
Do you like rainy days?
Do you like comic book?
Are you a 'blood-mixed'?
What do you want to be?

Other questions asked during class:
Who was your first love? Was he Korean?
If Korea and America play against each other in soccer, who would you root for? --this was followed by a very adamant "Not for Japan! Japan bad!" Then they tried to explain why by stomping their feet, demonstrating how Japan walked all over Korea during its colonization and occupation.

Monday, March 20, 2006

Case of the Mondays

No matter how great your weekend was (in fact that just makes it worse), Mondays are by far the most depressing day...always! I'd like to know, is there anyone out there who actually likes to go to work on Monday morning?

If Kristofer is here, Mondays suck because I hate to kiss him goodbye and walk out the door in the morning. If he's not here, I just want to lay in bed and miss him all day. I wonder if I were doing what I love --dancing perhaps, though I'm starting to wonder if I should choose a new passion that doesn't seem so far out of reach-- maybe I would be jumping out of bed to go to work and would love to talk to everyone. Perhaps, if I actually fluently spoke the language that was used at the workplace and didn't have to worry if I were violating some secret social code every minute, I wonder if that's all it would take to like work more. Then I realize that life isn't anywhere close to no matter what the circumstances; no matter where you are or whether you speak the language or not (because there are always going to be people who don't understand you or care to listen) it would probably be like this. Thus, why fight it. I'm going to take Kristofer's example and just go with things. I definately complain too much these days and am way too negative. I think if I were to just chill a little and stop worrying whether I am being the foreigner who looks like everyone yet sticks out like a sore thumb, then I would want to live life so much more.

Not that I don't want to live...I just don't want to live here...but things are so cool here...do I ever want to live anywhere? I'm always waiting for the next stop. Next thing I know, the next stop is gonna be the last stop...

Ok. So enough stressing whether I'm pleasing the Koreans. If anyone would like to send inspiring quotes or readings my way, I would gladly appreciate it. :)

Thursday, March 02, 2006

Seasonal Fruit

My nalgene still smells of orange-pomegranate juice. That was our breakfast in Cairo: fresh, squeezed,blended juices --any combination of orange, strawberry, pomegranate, and banana. A glass for 2 Egyptian pounds (5.5 Elbs = $1, u do the math). Mixed fruit was all four + ice cream and fudge. God it was so good. Too bad it wasn't mango season, though the three of us had just come from countries where we were pulling the juicy, nature's candies off the trees in Ghana and Guatemala.

I have always loved fruit and juices, but until I came to Korea, I don't think I quite appreciated it like I do now. When I first came in July there were only melons. Green melons and cantelopes. And a few bananas. Melons aren't my favorite, and all I wanted was a peach. However, as we went into August and September, and the melons started getting replaced by the biggest purple grapes and juiciest peaches I've ever seen, all I can remember is looking forward to the end of lunch or dinner time when the fruit would get brought out. Peaches in homemade yoghurt, and a race to squeeze the pulp of those grapes out of their skins.

As it started to get colder, my co-teacher told me she would have to start replacing the peaces with apples in the yogurt. I was frantic. I remember desperate one day, I went through the market looking for the last of the candy-like peaches. I didn't have to be too worried for long, though. Mrs Kim brought me figs --my first time! Real figs! They are cross between a raspberry and and orange on the inside and just a plant on the outside. You have to peel the green leathery skin to get to the soft ball of pulp on the inside.

The figs came and went too quickly, but my host mother made jam from the figs so we would eat that swirled into our morning yogurt. The colder months brought a short time of another kind of grape --this time so deep a purple, it was almost black-- and then of course apples, and now kyul. We're not sure what to compare kyul to, they're and easily portable and peel just like a clementine but taste like a tangerine.

Thankfully, Korea isn't the only country that had delicious seasonal fruits, afterall, I was going to tropical climates. Where we were staying in Accra, Kristofer and I were only able to scrounge 3 mangos off of those trees, but they were so perfectly perfumy and minus the stringiness. Lucky for us, Kristofer's good friend and radio co-host has generous trees that were always weighed down by the biggest mangos. Also lucky for us, his friends were just as giving and would always cut and cube at least 3 mangos at a time because they would all ripen together.

As I said, Cairo gave us pomegranates and the sweetest, pulpy oranges. I brought some onto the plane with me in my nalgene--it was the only thing that would soften the sadness of leaving Egypt and Hilary. My bad that I left the orange juice in there the whole week we were in Bombay. O well, it doesn't smell fermented anymore, just pomegrorangey.

Bombay had guavas --white ones and pink ones. Sweet, ready pineapples....mmm...and strawberries. Strawberries with cream was our dessert at dinner and the rest was brought to us at breakfast.

I was afraid I would be sad without the mangos or pomegranates, but Korea still has plenty of kyul sold on the sidewalks and the sweetest and CHEAPEST strawberries I've ever had. They're skinny, too, and not such a deep red. None of that mutant stuff we get back home.

Even though I'll leave before I get to have real figs again, and at home you can have any fruit you want at any time or month, I still think this system of eating home-grown fruits in their respective seasons is so much more fun. I never really realized fruit seasons. Back at home, the only fruit that I can really remember looking forward to was watermelon in the summer months (o yeah, we had lots of beautiful watermelons here during the summer melon season). In Korea, when there was a new fruit introduced, someone always explained what region was well-known for yielding it, and this would bring me back to the tropical countries that share some of the most unique, juiciest, natural candies (it's the most proper metaphor. with those mangos, I never needed anything artificially sweet from a store), but the rest of the temperate climates can only import or dream and remember.